When I was a kid, this was the time of year when Perry Como, America’s favorite crooning dad and ex-barber (Google him if you must) would sing “Oh, there’s no place like home for the holidays.” Now, depending on what goes on under your roof, that could be a good thing or a nightmare. But considering the nonstop avalanche of negativity that’s waiting for you outside your front door daily, let’s focus on the former.

Though Thanksgiving has just past, your social life will be all about gatherings for the next few weeks, some with family, some with friends and some with strangers. You’ll likely go out more than usual, so make sure you have shoes you can stand in for more than an hour. You’ll also be running into some of the same people over and over so it wouldn’t hurt to go over your wardrobe options now to avoid repetition and hearing, “I have to tell you again, that I love that plaid shirt on you.”

However, most holiday parties are like store bought eggnog: not well blended, more sweet than substantial and barely capable of giving you a buzz. So, how do you avoid all of that when it’s your turn to host?

For tried and tested advice on entertaining to stave off stress, we’ve consulted some of this region’s favorite (and very best) chefs to learn how they like to entertain and what they serve those they charm and cherish.

But first, some advice:

• Unless you’ve installed a mirror ball and dance floor, no party needs to be more than three hours long.

• When it comes stop RSVPing, virtually everyone sucks at it (including you). Be patient, and don’t dig your heels in. Send out two snark-free reminders. Regardless of the final number, expect a ten percent drop off on the day of your event.

• Maybe this is my ethnic thing, but aside from breaking one of the Ten Commandments, there’s no greater shanda (disgrace) than throwing a party and running out of food. Great flavors are impressive. So is abundance. Prepare 20 percent more than you need to. That’s why God made freezers. 

• I don’t care if it’s your family or your best friends. Don’t invite people over and then just wing it. In fact, you should plan your party with the same precision as the invasion of Normandy. Working back from your D-Day, make a schedule citing what day and time to shop, when to prep, what to cook when, when to set up, serve and break down. Pro tip: If you aren’t a chef, make dishes one at a time—do not multitask. You will screw it up.

• Unless you have hired help, it’s best if everything served can be made in advance or assembled with no effort. Cakes, pies, soups and punches can be frozen with no loss of flavor. Substantial foods like potted meats, stews, baked dishes often taste better the next day. Go for options that can be served at room temperature. Flowers or décor should be finished the day before.

• I know it’s the time of year for families to get together, but if you want to host a grownups only party, don’t be afraid to banish children and pets. If someone doesn’t like it, they can simply decline. A party with children and dogs is always all about children and dogs. And that can be delicious. So can a dinner party composed solely of adults.

• Regardless of the task at hand, when each guest arrives, stop what you’re doing and greet them at the door and, unless they’re in recovery, direct them immediately to the bar.

• Figure ten people to a bottle of liquor, four to a bottle of wine. If it’s a cocktail party and you have carpets or rugs that stain, reconsider serving red wine. However, a brightly colored very boozy punch is the smartest, canniest and most economical option. Perfect for raising a mood collectively. Note: Eggnog goes together horribly with food. 

• Order too much ice. It’s just water. It’s not like it’s hard to get rid of. But it can be a nightmare if you run out and have to wait for reinforcements.

• Adjust your lighting. Your house should already be on dimmers. Every switch. Always. Unflattering lighting can empty a room faster than an album of Kid Rock’s greatest hits. 

• You need music. It doesn’t have to be “Silver Bells” and “Little Drummer Boy.” In fact, the selection matters less than its volume—it should act as an undercurrent, able to instigate a buzz, but not loud enough to have anyone suggest karaoke. 

• There are very few truly happy drunks. Alert close friends and allies of an impending situation. If no one lives in the right direction, call a rideshare app or keep a taxi service number handy. Don’t be afraid to ask for someone’s car keys. Don’t be afraid to gang up against possible resistance. It may get uncomfortable, but it sure beats having this time next year being overshadowed by memories of a funeral.

• When you’re ready, quietly break down a buffet, clear a table, diminish a bar, enlist one friend to say their goodbyes, or simply say, “My gosh, I can’t thank you enough for being here and making this evening so special for us.” People rarely want to be the first to leave. That doesn’t mean they don’t want to. 

Always trust your favorite recipes, the ones you make with confidence. But if you’re looking for something special to try this year, who better to ask than the amazing top chefs in our region. Chefs Nora Allen (Mel The Baker), Halo Pérez-Gallardo (Li’l Deb’s Oasis), Efrén Hernández (Casa Susanna) and Rafi Bildner (Hilltown Hot Pies) share how they entertain in their own homes. And one last bit of advice from this writer: try out any new recipe at least once before you commit it to your big day; it lessens the possibility of a panic attack even mistletoe can’t quell.

 

NORA ALLEN

MEL THE BAKER 

“When we have people over, we always have extensive grazing plates of bread and cured meats. Dinner is built around warming meals, like brazed short ribs, a beef stew or a grilled salmon. I’m all about aromatic smells of the season like apple cider mulling and hearty soups. Ribollita is my soul soup—but who doesn’t love a chowder?”

“We favor produce traditionally grown in the Hudson Valley including squash and sweet potatoes. But I’m obsessed with corn—corn pudding, stuffing—no stuffing is better than corn bread stuffing—savory and sweet desserts. Traditional corn season is over but I’m also talking about the dried Flint corn [Flint or dent corn is native to America, and comes in colors as varied as garnet, grey, orange and navy. It can be obtained at Our Farm, outside Casanovia, NY, near Syracuse]. Castle Valley Mill just across the state border in Doylestown, PA, has an amazing array of corn meal and flour in almost every color of the rainbow, my favorite being bloody butcher, a horrible name because it’s blood red…but the flavor is super. Any of these will upscale your corn pudding or similar recipe. I use cornmeal in my stuffing. It’s the secret in the distinction of my Parker House rolls. 

I go crazy on desserts. I make so many pies. But one of my favorite desserts is a Brazilian dessert they often make for kids, kind of like a truffle but it’s a simple labor of love. Sometimes the simplest things can make the biggest difference.” 

CORN PUDDING 

16 oz Whole corn kernels

¾ cup Heavy cream

½ cup Spelt flour

1/3 cup Corn meal

¼ cup Sugar

2 tsp Salt

¼ tsp Baking soda

1 cup Sour cream

6 tbsp Unsalted butter, melted

1 Egg

• Preheat oven to 400°F. Generously butter an 8” baking dish

• Blend corn and cream in blender ’til smoothish

• Combine and mix all ingredients in mixing bowl until well-combined 

• Pour into baking dish. Bake for 35 mins (tester comes clean)

• Serve warm 

BRIGADEIRO

¼ cup Densely packed sweetened cocoa powder

3 cans Condensed milk (42 oz)

9 large Eggs

1 tbsp Vanilla bean paste

2 tsp Salt 

  Chocolate sprinkles 

• Preheat oven to 325°F

• Use non-stick spray on a bundt pan 

• Blend all ingredients together for 3-4 minutes ’til fully emulsified

• Pour into Bundt pan, place onto water bath rimmed baking sheet and bake for 30-40 minutes until set

• Invert and cool 

• Top with sprinkles and serve 

 

HALO PÉREZ-GALLARDO

LIL DEB’S OASIS

“My family is both Ecuadorian and Argentinian, though we tend to favor the Ecuadorian side. But it’s important to note that my grandmother was the cook for the Newhouses (the family that created the Condé Nast magazine dynasty) for three decades. The Newhouses are Jewish, so growing up in the ’80s, my diet was a mix of gourmet Ecuadorian and Jewish food. Empanadas, oysters and gefilte fish. Empanadas are important in our home, but Argentinians use a wheat flour dough and fill the pocket with ground beef, raisins, peas and potato. Ecuadorian empanadas use cornmeal or green plantains and can be filled with cheese, scallions and sugar. They’re called ‘viento’ because they puff up like the wind.

For a main course, hornado—a pork slow roasted until its meat is succulent and its skin is crispy—served with encurtido, spicy pickled vegetables. You also can’t beat a prime rib. And for New Year’s, it’s paella. If you’re serving multiple dishes, no one’s taking a full portion of anything.”

OYSTERS WITH MEYER LEMON & COFFEE OIL 

1-2 dozen Oysters

2 tbs Coffee beans medium roast 

¼ cup Neutral cooking oil

1 Meyer lemon 

1 tbsp Wheatgrass or chives, thinly sliced 

½ Shallot, finely minced 

Sea salt, to taste

• One day ahead, make the coffee oil: Finely grind beans. Combine with oil in a small pot and simmer gently for 45 minutes. Store overnight. Strain through cheesecloth

• Prepare the mignonette: Peel and mince lemon rind. Squeeze the juice and combine in a small bowl with shallots and salt

• Assemble: Spoon ¼ tsp of mignonette over each oyster. Drizzle with coffee oil. Garnish with chives. Serve immediately

EMPANADA DE VERDE

Makes 24

For the Masa

6 Green plantains peeled & grated 

6 Green plantains, peeled, chopped & boiled

1 tbsp Onion powder

1 tbsp Ground cumin

1 tbsp Garlic powder

1 tbsp Kosher salt

For Filling

½ lb Shredded mozzarella

½ Muenster cheese

½ Queso fresco, crumbled 

1 bunch Chives or scallions thinly sliced

1 qt Canola or neutral oil (more if needed)

• In a large pot of salted water, boil the chopped plantains until fork tender

• In a food processor, purée the boiled plantains until smooth. Add onion and garlic powder, cumin and salt 

• In a large bowl, mix the warm mash with the grated plantains, until it forms a cohesive dough. This is the masa. Adjust seasoning so that it is savory and aromatic

• Combine cheeses and herbs in a separate bowl

• Roll golf ball portions (2 inches) of masa. Flatten into a small circle. Spoon 2 tsp of filling onto ½ of disc. Fold and flatten to seal

• Heat oil to 350°F. Fry 2 empanadas at a time for 3-4 minutes until golden and crisp.
Dry on paper towels

• Serve warm with your favorite hot sauce 

NOTE: Uncooked empanadas can be frozen for up to 1 month. Fry straight from freezer at a slightly lower temp and cook a little longer

EFRÉN HERNÁNDEZ

CASA SUSANNA, RIVERTOWN LODGE

“This year I’m excited because I’m hosting Christmas Eve and Day. My wife’s family is from Pittsfield, MA, so we go hard during the holidays. I’ll brine the turkey, we’ll have big steaks, sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, broccoli. My young daughter, oddly enough and unlike most kids, loves broccoli. I can’t make too much of my traditional Mexican food because she won’t eat food that is too spicy, but she likes making tortillas and tamales because she loves playing with the dough. It’s fun to watch her get excited about rolling it and then we’ll make it the way my aunt used to with rajas, strips of roasted poblano peppers with cheese and wrap them up. My dad used to say ‘Well, at least if we go over to my aunt’s house at Christmas, if she forgets again to give you a gift, at least you unwrapped a really good tamale’.” 

TAMALES DE RAJAS

Makes about 12

For tamal batter: 

24 oz Masa (for home cooks, the easiest way is to buy masa harina and make masa by doing equal parts masa harina and hot water until you form a dough) 

7¼ oz Duck fat

2½ tsp Salt

4 tsp Baking powder (2.5%)

Chicken Stock or water for desired texture

 

• In a standing mixer, whip the fat

• Add baking powder, salt and combine

• Gradually add masa in 4 parts making sure it’s fully incorporated. Don’t rush this step 

• Bring to correct consistency with chicken stock. It should be pasty, like pancake batter

• To assemble tamales, use dry corn husks and spread the tamal batter evenly across the smooth side near the edge. Then in the middle add sliced strips of poblano pepper and queso Oaxaca. Roll the tamale closed and then fold over the end without the masa on it so that everything is tucked inside the leaf

• Place your tamales in a steamer. Depending on how many tamales you put in there, it can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 1 hour to steam fully. I like to steam them 1 hour before I’m serving and then leave them in the steamer until the moment I want to eat them 

• Serve with salsa

JALAPEÑO CORN BREAD

1 cup All-purpose flour

1 cup Yellow cornmeal

1 tbsp Baking powder

½ tsp Baking soda

1 tsp Kosher salt

1 large Egg, beaten

1 cup Buttermilk

½ cup Sour cream

½ cup Butter, melted

2 tbsp Sugar

3/4 cup Pickled jalapeños, diced (you can buy these at grocery store) 

1 cup Sharp cheddar cheese, shredded 

• Preheat your oven to 400°F

• If using a cast-iron skillet, place it in the oven to heat with 1 tbsp of butter or oil. You can also use a baking pan in a similar fashion 

• In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar

• In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg, buttermilk, sour cream and melted butter

• Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir until just combined. Don’t overmix; the batter should still be a little lumpy

• Fold in the diced jalapeños and shredded cheddar cheese

• Carefully remove the hot skillet from the oven using oven mitts. Pour the batter into the hot skillet and spread it evenly

• Bake for 30–35 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean

• Let the cornbread cool for 10–15 minutes before slicing and serving 

RAFI BILDNER

HILLTOWN HOT PIES 

“For me, this season was always about Channukah, and Granny Norma, the consummate Jewish chef, was always in charge. So we ate flanken (short ribs off the bone), jelly-filled donuts and latkes (potato pancakes). My diet changed when I merged traditions with those of my adopted family in southern Italy. And then I added Middle Eastern cuisines thanks to the journeys I took for the travel company I worked for. Pitas are not that dissimilar to pizza dough. I had to offer readers Granny Norma’s latkes—because they’re the best. As for the pizza recipe, I know it’s complicated but it’s an incredibly unique combination of ingredients that reflects the different stages of my life. I love it and I hope you do too. It’s the heartiest winter pizza and each flavor comes from a joyful place—perfect for the holidays.” 

GRANNY NORMA’S LATKES

Makes 12 (4-inch) pancakes 

1½ lbs Russet potatoes (3 to 4) 

1/2 medium Yellow onion, peeled

1 large Egg 

2 tbsp Matzo meal 

1 tsp Kosher salt 

1/8 tsp Freshly ground black pepper 

1 cup Canola oil 

Applesauce and sour cream, for serving 

• Heat oven to 200°F, to keep latkes warm. Fill a baking sheet with paper towels and another with a wire cooling rack

• Scrub russet potatoes well (DO NOT peel). Cut each potato in half crosswise 

• Peel and grate potatoes and onion (halve the half onion first) in a food processor using the shredding disc

• Transfer the grated potato and onion mixture into a large double layer of cheesecloth. Gather the corners, tie up around the handle of a wooden spoon and hang the bundle over a large bowl, then twist and squeeze the potatoes and onion as hard as you can until no more liquid comes out 

• Let the bowl settle for a few minutes and then pour off the liquid on top of the bowl—but keep the potato starch that settles to the bottom 

• Into the bowl, add the potato and onion mixture, the egg, matzo meal, kosher salt and black pepper. Mix this with your fingers, making sure the potato starch breaks up and is evenly distributed with the rest of the ingredients. Let the mixture sit for ten minutes 

• Place 1 cup canola oil (or chicken fat if you want to be luxurious) in a large, 10-inch skillet (the oil should be a 1/4-inch deep). Heat over medium-high heat until a piece of the latke mixture dropped in sizzles immediately 

• Form latkes one at a time. Scoop 1/4 cup of the latke mixture onto a flat spatula. Flatten with your fingers to a roughly 4-inch patty. Place in oil gently and fry until golden on both sides. Repeat until the pan is full but the latkes aren’t crowded. Cook until deeply golden-brown, 4-5 minutes per side, adjusting the heat as needed 

• Transfer the latkes to the paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain for 2 minutes. Serve right away with applesauce and sour cream or transfer the latkes to a wire rack and keep warm in the oven for up to 30 minutes while you continue frying the remaining latkes 

THE LEVANT PIZZA – A Hilltown Specialty 

Pizza-making is more art than science. The quantities below are guides for topping your pizzas—and feel free to add or omit toppings! The amounts needed vary depending on the size of your pie, whether the crust is pre-cooked and store-bought…just be sure not to overdo the toppings, so the crust isn’t weighed down. To make your own quick crust, Bildner recommends Jim Leahy’s No-Knead Pizza Dough recipe, which makes enough for four pies. 

Topping

1 small Red onion, sliced thin 

1 cup Red wine vinegar 

For Herb yogurt sauce: 

½ cup Plain, full-fat yogurt

¼ cup Fresh mint leaves 

2 tbsp Cilantro

½ tsp Cumin 

½ tsp Ground sumac 

½ tsp Kosher salt 

1½ tsp Lemon juice 

For Lamb: 

¾ lb Ground lamb 

2 Garlic cloves, minced to a paste

1 tsp Ground sumac 

1 tsp Ground cumin 

1 tsp Smoked paprika 

¾ tsp Kosher salt 

½ tsp Ground coriander 

½ tsp Ras el hanout spice blend (available in specialty shops. If not, substitute garam masala) 

¼ tsp Cayenne 

1 cup Fresh mozzarella, finely cubed 

1 tbsp Extra virgin olive oil 

2 tsp Za’atar 

1 sprig Dill leaves 

• Pre-heat oven to 400°F

• Prepare toppings:

For Pickled Onions: Place onions in small nonreactive bowl, cover with red wine vinegar. Let soak for at least 30 minutes, preferably for at least an hour

For Herb Yogurt Sauce: Blend yogurt, herbs, spices, lemon juice and lemon zest in a bowl, blender or food processor until smooth and fully incorporated. 

For Lamb: Mix ground lamb with garlic and spices until incorporated. Form lamb into 6 small patties and place on foil-lined half-sheet pan. Bake for 10-15 minutes until well-browned on the outside and slightly pink in the center. Let cool. 

• Raise temperature of oven 500°F

Pizza Assembly:

• Place a pizza stone or steel in the oven if using.

• Flour a work surface to stretch the dough. If using a pizza stone, form into a shape to match and with the desired thickness. If you don’t have a stone, use a nonstick sheet pan. If stretching the dough is difficult, let it relax for 5 minutes and then return to working it. Make sure there is enough flour under the dough to prevent sticking. Repeat as needed, depending on the amount of dough 

• If using a pizza stone, gently slide a pizza peel under the dough 

• Top each pizza first with half the feta, then half the mozzarella. Add 2 tbsp of pickled onions and then crumble 1-2 lamb patties onto the pizza. Drizzle 1-2 tsp extra virgin olive oil on top, rubbing oil onto exposed crust 

• Slide the pizza from the peel carefully onto the pizza stone—or put the sheet pan—into the oven 

• Bake for 10-18 minutes, until the crust is slightly risen and golden in color. If using a pre-baked, store-bought crust, the cooking time will only be 5-8 minutes. 

• Remove the pizza from the oven. Allow it to cool for a few minutes on a wire rack to prevent moisture from building underneath the pizza

• Move to a wooden board or pizza tray. Slice the pizza first, and then sprinkle with 1 tsp za’atar, garnish each slice with a sprig of fresh dill and finally, lightly drizzle about 1 tbsp of the herby yogurt sauce all over pizza. Enjoy.