Fork In The Road: In The Nic Of Time

As we all know, the mountains offer a multitude of great adventures, cultural attractions and beautiful paths for walking, running and biking. Similarly, restaurants have been proliferating throughout our region—most just a short ride away. And when we say short, we mean within 45 minutes (the apparent acceptable maximum driving time for a top-notch culinary experience). Since it most likely takes you 20 minutes to get to the nearest supermarket, what’s another 20-25 minutes to sample some terrific food?

My wife comes from a small town in Delaware and lived by the popular theory that asserts “there’s no such thing as bad pizza.” Being a kid from Brooklyn myself, I disagree. Good is good when it comes to most things, including pizza. And folks can debate about DiFara, Scarr’s, John’s, Luigi’s and Lucali all day long, but what’s not up for discussion is the fact that their pizza ranges from good to great.

In the mountains, good pizza can be far and few between, let alone great. There’s Hilltown Hotpies. Fantastic, but we’re waiting for the full stop renovation and reimagining of this great concept and restaurant. We’ve loved and enjoyed Rafi’s imaginative and excellent pies at pop-ups all over the Upper Hudson Valley to the Berkshire Hills. “Can’t wait” would be an understatement. Trust. 

What to do and where to go until then? Roberto’s in Sheffield, MA. Pizzeria Posto in Rhinebeck, NY. LOLA in Kingston, NY. Hudson & Packard in Poughkeepsie, NY (Detroit-style at its best). DeFazio’s in Troy, NY. But for my pizza money—for overall quality of crust, variety, service, environment and other Italian American food—Nic’s Trattoria is the best. In East Greenbush, NY. Yes, East Greenbush. 

Unassuming on the outside and an oasis of quality, service and food inside, Nic’s Trattoria proprietors, the Nicoletta brothers, come from a traditional Italian-American pizza-making family. Their dad had a fantastic pizza store nearby where they learned and honed their craft. Michael went off to refine his cheffing skills in New York City at various celebrated Michelin-starred restaurants. But his beloved Valatie, NY, roots called him back home to plant his red, white and green flag in the mountains once again. With brother Rocco expertly running the front of house with his cadre of aim-to-please wait staff, and smart, clean and inviting dining room and bar, it’s a packed-every-night destination restaurant.

Michael has built and modified his tight, consistent and delicious menu of salads, appetizers, house-made pastas, pizzas and entrées to near perfection. A friend and great maître d’ from Manhattan’s legendary eateries Le Cirque and Osteria del Circo once told me great restaurants need to be consistent to be truly great. Michael clearly understands that. Take their chicken cutlet. It’s an art here. As Parmigiana, Milanese or Caesar’s Cutlet, great on Thursday and fantastic again two weeks later on a Saturday or a month later on a Friday. Always consistent and delicious. 

Now for the beautiful woodfired brick oven pizza. It all starts with a great dough and slightly charred crust. Then smooth and delicious sauce, with toppings that surprise and delight. From earthy vegetables (broccolini and mixed mushrooms) to spicy and rich salumis (soppressata and pepperoni) to the topping of the moment, hot honey. You really can’t miss.

Their daily house-made pasta is a breath of fresh air. Seductively al dente and abundantly piled high with sauces that match the inventiveness of the pizzas. 

So take the trip around the corner or across the nonexistent borders to Nic’s Trattoria. And if you’re lucky, you may find their dad back in the lineup slinging the OG pies when filling in for their master pizzaiolo, Tyler Mullins.