There are several cities around the globe that live on my personal “obsessed list” and, until I landed in it, Helsinki wasn’t one of them. In the spring, I emerged from the Finnair terminal into a cold, grey dawn, staggered onto a Helsinki-bound train and prayed that I’d at least find the place, um, interesting? Desperate for a change of scenery, I’d come at the insistence of close ex-pat friends, who knew that after more than two years of being all but sealed inside a New York City apartment, a bit of time spent outside it might be in order. The…
