Thirsty: Hudson Chatham Winery Is Reborn

If the story of Hudson Chatham Winery were written as a novel, the inside-cover blurb would read something like: “An inspiring story of love, happenstance, struggle and rebirth. Steven Rosario and Justen Nickell are writing a new chapter at Hudson Chatham Winery, one vine at a time.”

Their journey together begins back in the fall of 2011, at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, NY where Steven, a culinary arts student from the Bronx, meets Justen, a Northern Californian leading the overnight baking class there as a sous chef. Their shared passion for the culinary arts soon blossoms into a partnership both in life and business. Fast forward to 2020, amid the throes of a global pandemic, they took a leap of faith, purchasing Columbia County’s first winery, the Hudson Chatham Winery.

In the decade preceding their purchase of the winery, they lived in California, and then in Boston, always working together. Oh, and they got married, too. “We did a quaint justice of the peace in New York City in the Spring of 2016,” says Steven, “and celebrated with a fabulous dinner at Buvette in the West Village, one of our favorite restaurants.” (One of mine, too.) Their decision to move from Boston to the Hudson Valley was serendipitous. After years of Airbnb stays, a friend introduced them to the winery, sparking the idea of transforming it from a weekend passion project into a full-fledged career shift. Around Christmastime 2019, they were in contract, excited to move forward. And then… the pandemic. “I thought we had fucked up,” says Steven, reminding me he had quit his job. “But in hindsight it was great, because we were able to provide our customers with a sense of escape and freedom in the country. I like to think that we provided an emotional release for people who needed it.”

As a couple and as business partners, their personalities are, putting it nicely, complementary. Or, as Steven describes their dynamic: “Our personalities are so polarized! Honestly, there’s a dynamism between us that’s amazing. I may be the super over-the-top extrovert; he’s the reserved introvert.” Justen, a fermentation whiz, dives deep into the cellar work, managing the vineyards and winemaking. Steven leads the hospitality, with the goal of making every visitor feel at home. 

Their approach to winemaking is decidedly unorthodox. “What we were most attracted to,” Steven says, “was that there were hybrid varieties.” Hybrid grapes are made by crossing European Vitis vinifera vines (think of all the wines you know and love, like Pinot Noirs and Sauvignon Blancs) with American Vitis labrusca or Vitis riparia grapes (think Concord, as in jelly!). They were developed by grape growers back in the 1800s to create insect- and disease-resistant grapes that could withstand pesky issues like rot, mildew or cold temperatures. You could easily go down a rabbit hole by googling the very loaded-and-dreaded word ‘phylloxera,’ but suffice to say the development of hybrids gained momentum because of that notorious grape vine root louse. 

So far, they’ve planted 4,500 new vines since taking over, committing to biodynamic and sustainable farming practices that are, realistically, not easy in this part of the country. They seem undaunted, crafting a dozen styles, including their ‘Co-Ferment Pet Nat,’ an estate field blend co-fermented with Hudson Valley peaches; a juicy Baco Noir, reminiscent of Syrah; and a vibrant, zippy Chambourcin.

In the summer, they host intimate dinners outside on their lawn, inspired, Steven says, by Outstanding in the Field, with a goal to always elevate a profound sense of place. “At the core of our values lies a profound sense of community, and we’re unyielding in our commitment to cultivating a space where meaningful connections are formed and enduring friendships blossom at the winery.”