Windham Mountain Club’s elevated restaurant wows our expert chef. Let’s eat.

By Jordan Schor

During my more than three decades in the restaurant industry in the Hudson Valley, I rarely have time to go skiing. My sport of choice is enjoying the bounty this region has to offer at many of its great restaurants. On a recent Sunday afternoon, I had the privilege of dining at all the food establishments at the Windham Mountain Club resorts. Every dish I ordered was nothing short of spectacular—a truly unforgettable experience.

My girlfriend Helen Sanfilippo and I started our afternoon delight at the first of two private restaurants: The Grill. We started our meal with chilled ahi tuna tacos: bluefin tartar, togarashi, sriracha aioli, sesame seeds and corn tortillas. These flavors blended well together, nested perfectly within a crisp taco shell. Next was the oxtail chili: a fresh twist on familiar fare. This chili was full of rich, deep flavors. The oxtail was tender and infused with an expert blend of spices that offered warmth and depth. With just the right balance of heat and savory richness, it was a comforting yet elevated take on a classic. Each bite felt like a cozy hug on a cold day, and I couldn’t get enough of it.

Our next delight was one of my favorites—chicken pot pie. The flaky puff pastry on this nostalgic dish was light yet substantial and the creamy filling was a perfect blend of tender chicken, vegetables and just the right amount of seasoning. It felt like a true indulgence with the rich, comforting flavors transcending far beyond ordinary. Our final dish at The Grill was the star of the meal, a bonafide classic and my all-time favorite: beef bourguignon. In my extensive culinary experience, this was in the top five best beef bourguignon I’ve ever had. The beef was incredibly tender, having been braised to perfection, soaking up the robust flavors of the red wine sauce. Each bite was an explosion of richness, with mushrooms, squash and asparagus. This dish felt complete and refined, showcasing the kitchen’s mastery in balancing flavors.

We made our way to the fast casual dining end of the resort. We dined at Seasons, a Mediterranean style restaurant and then the food hall. From the first to the last bite, the dishes presented were packed with fresh ingredients, bold flavors and bite-back personality. The chicken shawarma, falafel, babaganoush, hummus—even the tabouli—all hit the spot. Each of the fast casual dishes was satisfying, fresh and flavorful, proving that sometimes the simplest meals are plenty rewarding. Whether you’re grabbing a quick bite or sitting down to a casual meal, these spots offer a vibrant experience.

I’ve spent my 30-year career as a chef and owner striving for perfection. As we know, perfection doesn’t exist, but sometimes we come close. The iconic chef of The French Laundry fame Thomas Keller says cooks cook to nurture. Words I’ve built my career on. 

After taking a most exciting chairlift ride to Cin Cin!, Windham Mountain Club’s flagship restaurant, my anticipation was as high as the chair lift. We were greeted by Francesco Gallo, the restaurant’s general manager and sommelier, a classically trained chef from Bologna, Italy, along with the restaurant’s assistant general manager, Sam Calkins. After being seated at a booth with heavenly views, we met Executive Chef Goran Rustic, from Serbia. Many people call themselves chefs these days. This man is the textbook definition of a chef. I was inspired and enamored by his humility. I’d say he’s the best chef within 100 miles of any Michelin Star restaurant. This was, undoubtedly, the best meal I’ve had in at least two years. The carefully crafted menu—each dish with its own distinct flavor and texture—made for a truly memorable meal. Here’s a breakdown of what we indulged in.

Beet and burrata salad. This dish was visually stunning and beautifully balanced. The earthly sweetness of the roasted beets paired expertly with the creamy, velvety burrata. The clementine segments added a burst of citrus and freshness, while the pine nuts provided a delightful crunch. The pomegranate seeds offered a pop of color and a touch of tartness, making each bite a harmonious blend of flavors. Our next dish, a classic for me, was meatballs with ricotta and tomato sauce. The meatballs, tender and juicy, arrived nestled in ricotta cheese and tomato sauce. The creamy ricotta added a luscious richness to the dish, and the tomato sauce was full of depth. It was a comforting yet refined take on a classic dish. Though this next dish is on many menus, Chef Rustic’s Cacio e Pepe is the most traditional and the very best I’ve ever had anywhere. Period. It’s a delightful representation of simplicity done right. The bigoli pasta was perfectly al dente, and the creamy, sharp pecorino cheese coated each strand just enough, with black pepper that celebrated the beauty of minimalism, letting each ingredient shine in its own right.

Up next: ricotta gnocchi with gorgonzola, sage and walnuts. This dish hit all the right notes. Soft, pillowy and melt-in-your-mouth tender, the gnocchi was bathed in a rich gorgonzola sauce which brought a bold creaminess to the dish. The sage added an herby depth, while the walnuts introduced a crunch and warmth to the overall profile. It was a seductive medley of comfort and sophistication. 

The branzino was a standout as well, featuring filets cooked to sublime perfection. The combination of flavors created a bright Mediterranean-inspired sauce that paired wonderfully with the light flaky fish. The parsley added a refreshing herbaceous note that rounded out the dish.

My mother’s signature dish, veal osso buco, as prepared by Chef Rustic, left me with a tear in my eye, as I felt like my mother had prepared this for me. And it was a showstopper. The veal was incredibly tender, falling apart effortlessly after being braised in red wine and mirepoix. The sauce was rich and flavorful, with layers of complexity that made every bite a memory of my childhood. The creamy mashed potatoes were the ideal accompaniment, absorbing the sauce and adding a smooth, buttery contrast to the savory richness of the osso buco.

In tandem with the brilliant food menu, the wine list was a genuine reflection of the restaurant’s commitment to excellence. It’s clear the wine program here offers a carefully considered complement to an already exceptional meal, featuring a diverse range of wines from many international vineyards. Whether you’re a fan of bold reds, crisp whites or sparkling, rest assured there are exquisite options here. 

Overall, this fine dining experience was nothing short of magnificent. The dishes were beautifully presented, with bold flavors that demonstrated true culinary expertise. From the lightness of the fish to the richness of the veal, every dish felt thoughtfully crafted and expertly executed. Bravo to Chef Rustic and his team.

One can definitely argue that Windham Mountain Club is a foodie’s dream destination with a side of world-class skiing. This is an elevated experience you won’t soon forget. 

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