Had dinner at Kozel’s Restaurant in Ghent the other night. As old school Columbia County as you can get (est. 1936). Ordered the David’s “special” burger—a patty melt with American cheese, sautéed mushrooms and onions. Hand-cut fries and chicken rice soup. It was lightly snowing and comfort was the call. Hadn’t been here in two decades. Nothing’s changed, from the wood paneled walls to the wait staff—and that’s a good thing. Comforting, heartwarming and delicious. When I asked if the burger came with fries, my server replied, ‘If ya ask for them.’ Gotcha! Today, comfort comes in a very different…