Photographed by Fahnon Bennett On a balmy day in the fall of 1991, I was slumped in my chair behind my desk at The New York Times where I was Men’s Style Director bemoaning a morning spent looking at three men’s collections devoid of ingenuity, individuality or sensuality. Oh, they were perfect if you wanted to look like a banker or a new associate attorney on the hit television series L.A. Law. Despite Gianni Versace’s deliberate objectification of the male torso, the fluidity Giorgio Armani had applied to suitings and the languid come-hitherness infusing every stitch of Dolce and Gabbana,…
